Hilda in Africa

Thursday, July 27, 2006

Sierra Leone

What a joy to be sittiing at a computer which is modern and works! I am staying with a friend who is working for an Environmental Foundation, run by a local man. Not an NGO. I do not pretend to understand it all, but it is extremely stimulating to be amongst people who are not just spending their donors' money in ineffectual ways. I can be shot for this, but am pleased to find my thoughts confirmed in many ways. Africa cannot be 'saved' by having billions of dollars thrown at it. Unless the people are allowed to find their own solutions in their own way, there will not be a 'solution' to its problems. After so many years of Western involvement, one just needs to see how the Chinese have become involved in the last few years without the attitude of 'we know best' to be highly respected. They are getting involved in major works like road-building and actually producing the goods rather than standing back and giving orders. I can go on.....

The Foundation is producing a short film about the water crisis in Sierra Leone and I have been very fortunate to be able to tag along. Even in charge of the boom! We have been going to rivers and wells and filming the various urban and rural problems in pouring rain. It is the rainy season, but in the dry season, wells dry up and getting drinking water is a real problem. And of course, the usual suspects are the very many homes being built on the hillsides where the natural vegetation is being removed for fire-wood. And no kind of infrastructure is being supplied. How to educate? And dealing with the powers-that-be at the top with all the intrigues that are involved, is a real challenge. As in so many African countries, corruption is everywhere. The street-sellers with their wares displayed on small tables, or carried on the head, are subject to paying taxes. The tax-collector comes around daily and issues a ticket for the small amount of tax paid. But when he has reached his 'quota', he uses a replica booklet which is not 'official' and pockets the rest of the takings. It is necessary to suplement his small salary this way. Just an example of what I refer to ... throughout the system.

But to happier events: The guest house facilities in which we live are across the road from the sea. I am enjoying the chance to be a housewife by doing the washing-up and refusing to cook. As we only have a gas ring, cooking is generally pasta dishes and such a relief after Ghanaian food! Mind you, in Freetown the other day we had lunch in a restaurant and I am afraid the local food is also quite unpalatable to me. And of course, it is my greatest joy to call the 5 dogs and go onto the beach for walks and swims whenever I feel like it! Clean, uninhabited beaches as far as you can see.....

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