Hilda in Africa

Tuesday, June 13, 2006

5 days spent with Margaret in Ghana

I joined Margaret on her Post-Conference Tour through the Southern parts of Ghana. 22-26 June.




The many Slave Castles which dot the Southern Coastline of Ghana reflect the very busy slave trade which followed the original Gold trade. The coast was known as the Gold Coast until independence in 1957. They are rather sad places to visit and they each have what is known as the 'Door of No Return'. Going through this door was their last step on African soil. Most of the sources of slaves were from the African tribes themselves who were frequently involved in tribal wars. Prisoners of War constituted the largest portion of slaves. Traders said; 'Wars make gold scarse but negroes plenty'.



Margaret overcame her great fear of heights by bravely facing and completing this canopy walk above the tree-tops!



The Canopy Walk in Kakum National Forest. One climbs through the canopy layers to the top. Great to look down! The forest is a wonderful tropical paradise, although there are not many animals below, but plenty of Birds and butterflies amongst the trees.




OK, so I did it as well! But just cavalier about the whole experience. The 'name tags' were to count us in and out.






Julie? Sorry I cannot remember the name of the delegate in our party with me. Our minivan is behind. We had two vehicles like that and I was so amazed to actually be in one which was not totally battered and where we all had our own seat and the passageway was not another set of seats and there was only a little luggage on the rooftop and the seatbelts worked and it was clean!!!!!! When we left the Conference Hotel on the beachfront, we suddenly realised that we had before us a policeman on a motorbike and a car flashing its lights. This was our non-stop escourt out of Accra! It was quite surreal to see the man on the motorbike wave at oncoming traffic or at cross roads to just stop or get out of our way. Many times we just went into the oncoming traffic lanes and everyone just scatterd. We probably saved more than two hours of being stuck in the rush-hour like this. Accra is a vast city and most of the roads are in a terrible state. But if they should ever repair them properly, just think of all the car-repair people who would be out of work! The other day I was in a taxi whick suddenly had a loose exhaust pipe. Terrible racket! We drove a few kilometers and the driver suddenly swerved into the shade of a tree where a man had his makeshift ramp and bottle of Oxygen.. We got out, the repair man brought our his Oxygen cylider and welded the exhaust and off we went.





Men are the traditional weavers of the Kente Cloth which is done in long intricate strips and then sewn together to make a traditiional toga. There are endless patterns, although they first have to be presented to the Ashanti King for his use or approval. But I am afraid it has become a bit like the Scottish Tartan business where virtually anybody can claim a design. And for the tourists they make little armbands or bookmarks with one's name on them.



Most of Africa is denuded of easily accessible edible animals, contrary to the attitude of most people who have never been there and expect a lion or snake around every corner. When I was young and people had pen-friends instead of email-buddies, some South African correspondents livened their letters by telling that lions were roaming in our streets. During the first months of my trip, mainly in the desert, sahel and now sub-tropical lushness, I have seen hardly anything apart from domestic animals. But what is really plentiful, is these salamanders and ordinary lizards. Margaret's photo shows one on a palm treetrunk. They are everywhere, making me think that they are not edible. Wrong! In the Dogon Country I was offered a stick holding about a dozen salamanders speared through their necks. It looked pretty as the colours are so spectacular, but I did not fancy them as a snack. Nor did I fancy the extremely (big as your fist) large land-snails we were being offered from large trays on the heads of sellers whenever the bus stopped. They had to be restrained every now and then when they tried to get off the tray. However, I liked their shells....




Margarert very kindly, and rightly, thought that I would like a bit of pampering. So we had a night in the best Hotel in Accra! I am always open to such presents..... The fact that the Queen stayed there, gave it that little bit extra kudos. This is me going off to cool in the pool and the next picture is me again, just to show you how I too, can indulge in doing nothing but read, drink and chat.




Did anybody say I was having a hard time?!!!!

1 Comments:

At Sunday, June 18, 2006, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Love it! More pictures please and you haven't changed a bit! now I can really understand where you are. But the terrain will change as you go along? I know it will! Seemed a little strange to see you in 'civilisation' though, after past blogs.

Love Nadine

 

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